The Criterion - Piccadilly, London

The Criterion is a long standing English restaurant set in the heart of Piccadilly Circus. It first opened as a theatre in 1870 by caterers Spiers and Pond. Over time it has evolved and grown. These days the Criterion is a bit of an institution, not so much for its food, but more for its celebrity visits and lavish Neo-Byzantine architecture.

It boasts that Winston Churchill and David Lloyd George 'thrashed out their political views' at a table there. Both The Dark Knight and Russell Crowe's film 'The Good Year' shot scenes there (to name a few). More recently I was (embarrasingly) watching The Real Housewives of New York. They too decided to film there and take in that English cliche of afternoon tea. I rest my case. So obvious girls, there are far better places to go to indulge in a cup of tea, scone, and cucumber sandwich.

Food critic James Rayner described it as one of the worst meals of 2010. Hmm, not a great start. 

When I went I had the Buffalo Mozarella with Tomato, Pesto, and a slightly odd tasting Balsamic Jelly (£11). £11 for a bit of cheese and tomato seemed a bit steep, but hey, I wasn't paying. I then had the Sea Bass with Saffron Potatoes, Peas, and Tomatoes (£26). Both of which were average. Nothing special in other words, and certainly not deserving of the price.

What I came to realise thereafter was that you are not paying for the food at The Criterion. You're paying for the experience, and the dated luxury. If you want afternoon tea dipped in English tradition I'd suggest the Ritz, not this place.

The Criterion
5/10
224 Piccadilly
London W1J 9HP
www.criterionrestaurant.com
0207 930 0488

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